Trolling or Holing?
by: Mark Martin
The in-between season as winter approaches might mean
open water or ice. Be ready to go either way when the weather can,
too.
With the way the weather works in the northern climes,
you never know what the tail end of fall and the onset of winter will
bring. Sometimes it’s warm enough for open water. Other times it’s
cold enough for ice. Then again, you might get a boat out one day
and find ramps sealed the next.
All of which is why, when it comes to walleye fishing,
I’m ready to do whatever it takes to get on fish. Troll a line or
drill a hole—either end of the spectrum is possible. For last-chance
walleyes in open water, trolling day or night with long, thin stickbaits
is one of the most productive methods for big walleyes on the feed
before winter. In the event of ice, however, I don’t stray far from
the spots that last produced before hard water, and I jig them with
a subtle motion that
matches the walleye’s mood.
Right about now, the weather can go either way. You
can, too.
Going for a Troll
Cold water has long had a reputation for necessitating live bait for
walleye. But with the emergence of tournament fishing in the frigid
waters of April and with all the time I’ve spent stalking walleyes
year-round near my home, outside of Muskegon, Michigan, the efficacy
of minnow baits is undeniable. Cold water in spring or fall makes
little difference—it’s still cold water. With the thin minnows, I’ve
caught walleyes with water temperatures in the low 40s, even in the
high 30s in December. The reason I like thin minnows in such conditions
is due to their light side-to-side action accented by a roll around
a center axis. No other lure supplies the key cold-water ingredients
of Normark’s Rapalas. When the water is in the 40s, Rapala Husky Jerks are excellent trolling baits,
particularly for Great Lakes walleye. When the temperatures, though,
hover in the low 40s or even dip into the 30s, I like the even more
delicate action of Rapala’s Original Minnows, floaters
that dive slightly when trolled and wiggle just right — which is hardly
at all at speeds of 1.0 mph or less.
One of the best bites occurs anywhere is in November
and beyond on the Great Lakes. Trolling inshore areas around pierheads
and river mouths with Husky Jerks behind planer boards puts more and
bigger fish in my Lund than any other pattern on
earth. This time of year, the fish move shallow in a trend similar
to spring movements, when baitfish are in close and walleyes start
running rivers.
To run two lines per person and get lures away from
the boat in increasingly clear, zebra-mussel-filtered waters, I turn
to Church Tackle planer boards—the Walleye Board,
in particular, because of its size to plane away from the boat and
provide resistance necessary to put hooks in fish. For nighttime trolling,
Church Tackle offers a handy glow stick than can be attached to the
boards for seeing strikes.
To set lines and divide up the water column, I like
to stagger the distance I’m running the Husky Jerks behind the boat.
For instance, with No. 10 and No. 12 Down Deep Husky Jerks, I’ll put
one lure out 10 feet behind the board, the next 15, another 20 and
another 25. This way, I’ll be running four different depth levels
to better zero in on the fish. For colors, I try to match Great Lakes
forage with silvers and blues. New for 2004 will be the holographic
Glass Minnows from Rapala in Down Deep models.
My trolling speeds are about the same on and off the
Great Lakes. I like to troll slowly, keeping my speeds around 1.0
mph on my Lowrance GPS. I’ll troll with my Mercury kicker motor most of the time for Great Lakes fish, but
when a number of boats are working an area or at night,
I’ll switch to the quiet power of my electric motor.
The electric excels especially for night trolling, either
on the big lakes or on inland waters, for slow contour trolling. At
night, when the water temps slip toward 40 degrees, I’ll use the Original
floaters from Rapala in size 13. When I put the lure over the side
on Berkley 20-pound FireLine, I go just fast enough to make the lure
wobble. Another trick to trigger strikes is to slowly ease the lure
forward and drop it back on a semi-tight line—a move that often gets
following walleyes to bite.
Going to the Hole
Following walleyes are by no means relegated to open
water. When I start ice fishing, I watch the walleyes under the ice—and
coming to my bait—on an Aqua-Vu underwater camera
in the DT Series, an indispensable device that gives depth and water
temperature. More than anything, though, I’m able to watch walleyes
come in for a look at my bait and adjust my jigging motion accordingly.
With a Jigging Rapala, to which I add a minnow to
the middle treble, I’ve found by watching the camera that a light
jiggle is all the action necessary. Twitch the lure too hard or drop
it to bottom, and off the walleyes go.
The spots I choose at first ice are remarkable similar
to the ones I’ve fished in open water. I like to take waypoints from
where I’ve caught my last open-water walleyes and return to them.
In open water, too, I rely on electronic contour maps in my Lowrance
from Navionics. Navionics maps give contours on your
GPS units, and the same points and humps that are noted on the map—and
last produced in the fall—are the first spots I check at first ice.
But since mobility is somewhat limited in ice fishing,
I wind up drilling a lot of holes with my StrikeMaster auger,
which has the gasoline power to drill plenty of holes along a contour
line or hump from shallow to deep. Also, before a lot of snow gets
on the ice (and even when it does), I tame the slick conditions with
Get-a-Grip treads by StrikeMaster, which make it easy to keep your
footing and drill plenty of holes. Which way you go now—to open water
or ice—is largely out of your hands. It’s in Mother Nature’s,
and it only makes sense to play with the cards she deals you. Troll
if you can or jig if you must. Either way, you’ll be well on your
way to walleyes. |